The resin (which should stay on the roller/brush) is a different matter, especially for the 2-part exotica, so don't spray it. (Which is basically zinc powder held together by paint resin and thinner it's so heavy it needs extensive shaking, and you should buy it in quarts so you don't break the paint shaker, seriously).Įvery bit of this stuff is "cootie", however the (part intended to evaporate) fumes aren't as bad as the State of California says, and clear after a day or two. Power wirebrushing to futility, dust removal, solvent wipedown, then Rustoleum 7769 Rusty Metal Primer, or cold galvanizing compound.Media blast to near-white metal (SSPC-PC10) followed by dust removal, solvent wipedown, and almost any competent metal primer.The only things I've ever found to work in a wet location is You can play around with naval jelly / rust converter, but I've never had any luck with it in wet locations it always fails within a year. The latter is, unfortunately, a real thing and should not be discounted. For some people, such things are "cootie" euther due to abundancee of caution, or genuine chemical sensitivities. Apply rust stripper as clear coat or paint within 48 hours. Jelly formula provides superior cling for longer efficacy. All of which will involve strong smelling industrial chemicals which will spread throughout the house (this is an air handler after all). Rust remover removes rust fast from iron, steel and other metal. Using a paint brush, generously apply the gel to the rusty metal. The only "save the panel" treatment I can see involves aggressive mechanical rust removal followed by competent anti-rust coatings. Using the wire brush or steel wool, rub out as much dirt and loose rust from the metal surface as you can. Everyone loves a rustic look, but no one wants rust where it’s. If you want to know more, go ahead and take the time to read through the rest of this article. The company claims that it can remove rust on virtually anything. That, with the existing rust, will rapidly corrode the panel entirely. As it turns out, naval jelly is the rather comical name given to a very potent rust removal product made by Loctite. The problem is that insulation, while it will reduce condensation, it will also trap moisture and hold it there. We would not recommend that the Loctite rust neutralizer be used in anĮnclosed system, such as, HVAC duct work. My question is: do I also need to use some sort of rust stop or rust cleaner before I do so? And, if so, what kind of chemical/product would be safe for the ductwork? I don't want caustic or strong chemicals to make it into the ventilation system spreading fumes around the house or damaging equipment.ĭo you think using loctite rust neutralizer would be safe?Īdditional Update: Henkel corporation returned my email and said: I bought some hvac insulation that I could put over it, but I wanted to clean off the rust with a wire brush before I do so. The rust seems to be caused by the water that sweats on that section when I'm running the AC. So I have a small section (about 1.5 ft) of non-insulated ductwork with some rust right above my HVAC blower/furnace in the basement.
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